Salubrious Consumption

Brooklyn Fermented is a roving academy of food and wine professionals dedicated to the informed, unfussy appreciation of well-crafted, regionally expressive wine, cheese and beer. We offer classes at venues across the borough and beyond.

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New York State of Ferment: Channing Daughters Winery & NY’s Finest Cheese

Tuesday, May 15, 2012, 7pm
61 Local, 2nd Floor Private Room
61 Bergen St between Boerum Pl and Smith St, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn
Cost: $40

Featured Guest Speaker: Christopher Tracy, winemaker/partner, Channing Daughters Winery, Bridgehampton, N.Y.

Join 61 Local and Brooklyn Fermented for an exploration of Empire State wine-and-cheese harmony in this one-night-only educational tasting led by Channing Daughters winemaker Christopher Tracy and Brooklyn Fermented’s Adrian Murcia.

Sample a diverse range of wines from Long Island’s pioneering Channing Daughters Winery alongside a seasonal line-up of New York State’s top artisanal cheese.

Founded in 1982, Channing Daughters Winery has distinguished itself as something of an East End outlier, producing wines of exceptional personality and striking singularity, earning along the way an enviable following among consumers and wine professionals alike.

Since joining Channing Daughters in 2001, winemaker Christopher Tracy has maintained a remarkable balance between what you might call a ‘New World’ innovative restlessness–avid varietal and clonal experimentation; ever-changing, often unusual varietal blends–and a decidedly ‘Old World’ respect for site-specific expression in the vineyard, minimal intervention in the cellar, and food-friendliness in the bottle.

And what better way to highlight a wine’s food affinity than pairing it up with lovingly crafted, expressive local cheese? Fifteen years ago, New York had only a handful of artisanal cheesemakers. These days, mirroring a national trend, New York is turning out an ever-widening palette of world-class dairy gems from all over the state, and our palates are grateful.

Working with Saxelby Cheesemogers, we’ve hand-picked a dairy ‘suitor’ for every ‘daughter’; you tell us if you think the marriages work.

No matter what, we’ll all get a tasty snapshot of just how far New York State’s cheesemakers have come over the last decade or so, and sample some of the state’s most intriguing wines with the man who made them.

61 Local is a convivial public house in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, celebrating locally crafted food, drink and the people who make it. 61 Local regularly hosts programming and events spotlighting the spirited Brooklyn community.

Brooklyn Fermented is a roving outfit of gastro-professionals dedicated to the advancement and unbridled enjoyment of lovingly-crafted, regionally-expressive wine, cheese, and beer.

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Señorio de P. Peciña Rioja Joven 2009 & Ossau-Iraty

Hermanos Peciña, Señorio de P. Peciña Joven 2009, DOCa Rioja (La Rioja, Spain), $12.99/750ml95% Tempranillo, 3% Graciano, 2% Garnacha
Ossau-Iraty, Onetik cooperative (Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France), $28/lb.unpasteurized sheep milk

With the exception of vines as far as the eye can see, the most common sight in Rioja, situated in north-central Spain’s upper Ebro River valley, is probably locals tucking into chulletillas (baby lamb chops grilled over vine cuttings) and cordero asado al horno de leña (leg of lamb roasted in wood-fired ovens) at lunchtime. And since Riojanos have been working the vine here for well over a thousand years, it makes sense that the earthy, cherry/raspberry-scented, Tempranillo-based reds they’ve been turning out for so long should match the flavors of the local diet. The felicitous Tempranillo-lamb combo extends to Rioja and sheep cheese as well; Rioja and Manchego are in fact a classic match. Here silky, sweet, and buttery Ossau-Iraty, a shepherd cheese from the western Pyrénées of France with an ancient pedigree, stands in for its Spanish cousin. Joven, Spanish for ‘young,’ is Rioja’s entry-level red category/age designation and spends less than a year in oak barrels, if it sees any time at all. Peciña’s exuberant, but still recognizably old-world Joven adds sweet tones to the cheese’s unmistakable meatiness, while simultaneously echoing, albeit subtlety, a decidedly umami savory character also apparent in the cheese.

Wine: Slope Cellars, 436 7th Avenue (14th & 15th), Brooklyn, NY. tel. (718) 369-7307

Cheese: Bklyn Larder, 228 Flatbush Ave. (Bergen & 6th Ave.), Brooklyn, NY. tel. (718) 783-1250

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